Object 105

Samoan siapo

Kew Economic Botany Collection, 42861

Art Historical Description

This Samoan tiputa garment has several interesting features worth noting. Although its hand-painted decoration shows it to be manufactured in the tradition of siapo mamanu cloths, its reverse bears a simple scheme of parallel brown lines on the lower of its two constituent layers, showing that it has received at least some rubbed decoration during composition. The neckline is trimmed with a piping of imported black calico, finely stitched – a technique that became increasingly common during the missionary period of the mid-19th century. The brownish-red panels front and back are rich and lustrous, indicating their over-painting with a top layer of varnish-like Parinari insularum fruit juice. The tiputa was donated to Kew in 1866 by the Reverend Thomas Powell, a missionary of the London Missionary Society who lived on the island of Tutuila for many years, and a keen botanist.

Images

Kew EBC 42861. Colour photograph of a Samoan tiputa or poncho, hand-painted in the tradition of siapo mamanu cloths. The brownish-red panels are over-painted with a top layer of varnish-like Parinari insularum fruit juice. The tiputa was donated to Kew in 1866. (copyright Economic Botany Collection, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew)
Kew EBC 42861. Samoan tiputa or poncho, hand-painted in the tradition of siapo mamanu cloths. (© Economic Botany Collection, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew)

Kew EBC 42861. Colour photograph of a Samoan tiputa or poncho, hand-painted in the tradition of siapo mamanu cloths. This reverse side bears a simple scheme of parallel brown lines showing that it has received at least some rubbed decoration. (copyright Economic Botany Collection, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew)
Kew EBC 42861. Samoan tiputa or poncho, reverse side. (© Economic Botany Collection, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew)

Details

Type

garment

Date

1866

Decorated

yes

Dimensions

210cm (length) x 80.5cm (width) x 0.7mm (thickness)

Connections

Place

Samoa and American Samoa

People

William Miller Christy

Institution

Manufacture

Associated Materials

Broussonetia papyrifera; Bischofia javanica; Parinari insularum; Tacca leontopetaloides; Aleurites moluccana

Associated Techniques

bark removal; river-board cortex stripping; initial beating – wooden anvil and square beater; spreading and homogenisation; flat-faced beater smoothing; composition pasting throughout; rubbed decoration; post-completion conditioning; running stitches; fringe cutting; serrated edging; hand painting; tannin-rich glazing

Associated Fabric Types

siapo mamanu; siapo tasina

Conservation Description

Treated as a student project at the Textile Conservation Centre i

Version

Entry created on 28 August 2020